This is my first attempt at a tutorial and I'm not too computer
literate, but here I go.
First I'd like to say that if you have not yet tried the original Z1
mod you should check it out first. If you can't get your spark arrester
out without messing it up then come back here.
You will need some special tools first being a cutoff saw with a thin
disc, a wire wheel for cleaning metal before welding, and a welder or a
friend who welds.

Step 1&2
Remove exhaust pipe from bike and remove heat shields from pipe.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000053.jpg
Step 3
Make 2 line up marks with cutoff disc across weld and onto the can
part of exhaust. You will use in reassemble process step 8.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000054.jpg
Step 4
Directly behind weld, cut off rear of exhaust pipe keeping as close to
the weld as possible.
Take your time, keep the blade straight, and try to avoid sinking
blade too deep in as this will remove more material shortening the pipe
and causing wide gaps your welder will have to fill.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000055.jpg
step 5
Look in tail pipe and locate 2in. dome. Center punch this for drill
guide in next step.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000056.jpg
Step 6
With hole saw of (your choice) drill hole in this dome.
I used a one and one half in. on mine, and Raven used a one in. on
his. We have both experienced an increase in power BUT His is
noticeably quieter. I think brother Raven made the better all around
choice.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000059.jpg
Step 7
Clean edges of parts to be welded with wire wheel inside and out being
careful not to remove your line up marks from step 3.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000060.jpg
Step 8
Center the two halves of pipe on each other using marks from step 3.
Hold carefully together and make at least 3 spot welds around pipe to
hold it when welding. Now start your weld on the old weld and drag the
heat to the pipe. Take your time and weld the entire diameter of the
pipe. You should end up with a little wider weld but still looking like
factory.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q95/h8tvsports/S5000061.jpg
Step 9
When pipe has cooled,use a scotch bright pad to clean up the welded
area and the rest of the pipe(might as well make the whole thing look
nice). Refinish with high heat flat black (stove pipe black)
Step 10
Reverse steps 1 and 2
All together not including drying time the first time I did this it
took about 45 min. The second time was a little less then 30 min.
PS
I highly recommend the 3 turns out on carb and air box mod both are
easier than the tail pipe mod but worth it.
A special thanks to RavenLunatic who shared in the time and effort it took to do the labor,pictures,and guiding me through the process of writing this. Thanks Bro more to come.

Hey "CougarBait".. Welcome to the group.. Hope you don't mind me
re-posting with pics instead of links.. Easier to read.. Cheers

============================================

This is my first attempt at a tutorial and I'm not too computer
literate, but here I go.
First I'd like to say that if you have not yet tried the original Z1
mod you should check it out first. If you can't get your spark arrester
out without messing it up then come back here.
You will need some special tools first being a cutoff saw with a thin
disc, a wire wheel for cleaning metal before welding, and a welder or a
friend who welds.

Step 1&2
Remove exhaust pipe from bike and remove heat shields from pipe.



Step 3
Make 2 line up marks with cutoff disc across weld and onto the can
part of exhaust. You will use in reassemble process step 8.



Step 4
Directly behind weld, cut off rear of exhaust pipe keeping as close to
the weld as possible.
Take your time, keep the blade straight, and try to avoid sinking
blade too deep in as this will remove more material shortening the pipe
and causing wide gaps your welder will have to fill.



step 5
Look in tail pipe and locate 2in. dome. Center punch this for drill
guide in next step.



Step 6
With hole saw of (your choice) drill hole in this dome.
I used a one and one half in. on mine, and Raven used a one in. on
his. We have both experienced an increase in power BUT His is
noticeably quieter. I think brother Raven made the better all around
choice.



Step 7
Clean edges of parts to be welded with wire wheel inside and out being
careful not to remove your line up marks from step 3.



Step 8
Center the two halves of pipe on each other using marks from step 3.
Hold carefully together and make at least 3 spot welds around pipe to
hold it when welding. Now start your weld on the old weld and drag the
heat to the pipe. Take your time and weld the entire diameter of the
pipe. You should end up with a little wider weld but still looking like
factory.



Step 9
When pipe has cooled,use a scotch bright pad to clean up the welded
area and the rest of the pipe(might as well make the whole thing look
nice). Refinish with high heat flat black (stove pipe black)
Step 10
Reverse steps 1 and 2
All together not including drying time the first time I did this it
took about 45 min. The second time was a little less then 30 min.
PS
I highly recommend the 3 turns out on carb and air box mod both are
easier than the tail pipe mod but worth it.
A special thanks to RavenLunatic who shared in the time and effort it took to do the labor,pictures,and guiding me through the process of writing this. Thanks Bro more to come.
_________________________
RavenLunatic's Twin brother

Hello again "CougarBait".. To make a picture appear..

Next time "Cut And Paste" the "Img Code"..

I find if you click on the Img next to the box it will automatically copy the path then all you need to do is past this link into the field third which comes up when you select the button third from the left. To locate the correct button you hover your mouse over the button then a pop up appears "Enter an Image", past the link here and you should see the image when you preview the Post.

Sorry forgot to put in my last. Thanks for the instruction, just got my wife another XT and can't take the stock muffler its just to poxy and quiet. I have searched for the bolt mentioned to remove the spark inhibitor and cannot find it, must have an early model muffler

Hi Walls

Since I posted this in January I took Chartman's advice and have been able to post pic's correctly since but, Thanks for the help. People on here are so helpful It's like having a group of new best friends.

By the by if you lay on your back under your XT tail pipe and, if you do have a bolt it should look like this.

And if you want more noise go with 1.5in. or bigger hole.
Maybe I'll try to post some sound bytes.

Cougar

Hi Cougerbait,
No its still sitting down in my shed yes I chopped both ends off it but as yet have been unable to remove the baffling out of the pipe. I have been getting stuck into it with my ballpein hammer and have the baffle half way out. I cannot see how it can be modded the same way as the Z1 mod. If I can get the baffle out I have a friend who is into making up special baffles so may ask him to do one up for my muffler.
If this does not work I will look for a complete muffle from the wreckers and get a piece of pipe bent to fill the gap back to the engine pipe.