The idle won't be glassy smooth like an EFI engine, some hunting is normal. That said, what you describe sounds like a vacuum leak or partially clogged idle circuit.

I'm not sure about that fitting on the bottom of the tank. Vent or overflow?

Someone says it might have been some CA evap thing. But that stuff is long gone. I think it was a tube that went to a charcoal canister, but then i don't know where it's supposed to go from there.

Suggestions on what to do with it?

Ah, I didn't catch that it was a CA bike. So yes, there was a hose that went from that fitting to the charcoal cannister. It didn't go anywhere from there, just vented through the cannister. So you can run a hose down below the crankcase with the other vent tube or just leave it as is.

Ok, thanks, i was just concerned because it seems like it drops fuel onto the exhaust pipe! I will try to reroute it.

One thing about my problem cold starting the bike, do you think the needle valve could have anything to do with it? The screw that holds it in is the one i couldn't budge and I didn't want to risk stripping it so i just left it when i was checking the carb out. I sprayed cleaner towards it and worked it up and down to try and get some inside.

Do you think there's is a problem in the carb if the bike is able to bump start pretty easily? I just don't get why it won't start off the button when cold. The 3 turn mod had already been done, and it was at a little under 3 turns. I went a little over 3 to see if that would help

No liquid should come from that fitting, only vapor.

Not sure what you mean by the needle valve. The jet needle is the long pointy brass part (#23) that's attached to the diaphragm/slide (#25). The jet needle fits inside the needle jet, which is the brass tube with small holes that's (usually) fixed to the carb body. The main jet (#29) screws into the end of the needle jet. The float needle and seat are part #31.

The only thing I can think of regarding your starting problem is a flat battery. Does the bike turn over vigorously or slowly when you use the starter? There could be some sort of electrical drain (bad ground?) that's making it not fire. I don't think it's carb related, it sounds electrical.

Ok, the book i have called #31 the needle valve i think, but yes it's the one connected to the float with the little wire hoop. I couldn't really budge the screw holding it in so i left it before stripping it.

The battery seems ok, but i did read something else saying that could be a culprit. I'll add some extra power via jumper cables to it while starting and see if that helps when i try to start it.

Thanks a lot for your help! You guys and the rest of this site have been a great resource! The bikes not perfect, but it's a lot of fun and the wrenching hasn't been intimidating. I'm learning a lot and getting way more comfortable working on it

Ok, i hooked up my car to the bike and it started pretty easy. So it must be a low power battery. I'm slow charging it now to see if that helps it, if not I'll grab a new battery.

I replaced my non functional horn and it's working intermittently now but the switch seems like the issue. Have to wiggle the button to get it to sound off.

I definitely have small amount of liquid gas coming out of that extra CA vent tube on bottom of the tank. There's always a small drip just in the tube but it must fall down onto the head at some point.

Waiting on brake pads and shoes to arrive.

I was worried about some oil i had found under the bike but tracked it to the airbox and had read that high rpms for extended times (freeway riding) can cause oil in the air box. I've been guilty of that so I'll watch out. It goes through oil too if i do too much of that

Yuasa makes the best AGM motorcycle batteries excepting Odyssey perhaps. Last I checked Odyssey didn't offer an XT battery. If you shop online, be careful about battery makes. Advertising can be deceptive. Chinese stuff is crap on batteries IMHO.

The XT has a magneto ignition system which doesn't depend on a battery for spark. But certainly on cranking speed which does depend on the battery. Lower than spec cranking speed reduces the velocity of the magnet passing the magneto coil (part of the stator) and will weaken spark. Making for hard starting or no starting at all. A bad magneto coil can cause the same problems. If you jump from a running car, you'll get more than 12.6 V meaning higher cranking speed from even a brand new fully charged battery. Keep that in mind when comparing. A car battery will also provide much more CCAs than its motorcycle counterpart. Thus less voltage drop and better cranking speed. The XT has a starter motor relay in the circuit. Make sure it's in good shape and the contacts aren't burned.

I've had troubles with both horn and starter buttons for the same reasons. I recall a circular spring loaded brass ring that shorts two contacts inside those push buttons. They can get filled with crap preventing the ring from closing the circuit. Clean and fill with a silicone dialectic is what I had success with. Never needed to replace either switch.

I've also replaced the horns several times. They are in front and get sprayed with crap from the trails or road. The diaphragms get crapped up, rusty and freeze preventing the horn from sounding. I always went with OEM replacements although I'd imagine much better horn options are available. A horn is an important safety device and the loudest one is the best. We're so vulnerable on our bikes with inattentive drivers weighing a lot more than us. If they can see a motorcycle perhaps they can hear it. A horn might save your life!

I always had a little trace oil in the air box and never thought it an issue. At 1.06 quarts, the bike doesn't have a lot of oil so levels are important. I always used Mobil I full synthetic changed every 500 miles. My only beef with synthetic oil is I though it caused some of the O-rings to bleed more than dyno grade oils. Never any issues with the wet clutch (using synthetic oil) which I think is a myth. At max 18HP the bike just isn't capable of slipping a properly functioning clutch. If the clutch has issues, that's a different situation.

Good luck and ride safely.