My coaster enrichment cover thread is HERE. Kerosene or diesel fuel works fine for cleaning a chain. If you decide on replacing the chain, DID-428 O/X-ring chains are good for trail riding. Make sure your sprockets aren't worn either. Replace them if/as required when installing a new chain.

As for embedded photos, many here use IMGUR. You'll need to upload your photos to a hosting site that provides a clean URL ending in .jpg or .png One that isn't blocked from posting on a blog. IMGUR links are clean and work. Use the image icon in the full editor window to paste in your photo URL. Good luck.

A cheap and effective bike stand for chain clean and lube? I just use a stick under the right side of the swingarm. It doesn't get any cheaper than that.
It helps to put a 2x4 under the kickstand then lift the rear wheel up and place the stick under the swingarm about 2 " in front of the axle. My stick is 15" long and gets the wheel high enough to do the chain maintenance.
Some people may differ, but I use a wire brush to knock the dirt off the chain then use the chain lube. I've found that even the so called clean chain lubes will build up dirt and gunk no the chain.

I always used a plastic milk crate topped with a piece of plywood. Lots of inexpensive options out there to hold the bike up. As for the milk crate, add support blocking as needed to stabilize the bike. Whatever option you use, just be careful that the bike doesn't fall.

I have a swingarm stand from my sportbike days, but I've used a milk crate and a 2x6 too.

I use the B-12 carb cleaner too. It works great. It hurts when it gets in your eyes.

You need to know if you have an o-ring chain or a non o-ring chain. I just use WD-40 and a rag on an o-ring chain. If you dunk it in kerosene (or any liquid solvent) you'll clean all the lubricant out of it. I don't apply any external lubricant as it just gives the dirt something to stick to.

A non o-ring chain is fine to dunk and scrub and must be re-lubricanted.

take your cab apart as far as you can leaving the jets alone and soak everything in white vinager for a few hours, overnight even. You will be surprised with the results. I just got a 89 sp 200 back to life after many cleans. One 8 hour soak and she was back to life.

any updates BCgirl?
Fun to see another female mechanic on here

I had carburetor problem a few years ago.
Delayed throttle response and backfires during declaration.
Top end power and idling was good.

Took the carburetor out of bike 4 times ,caburetor spray on jets each time. No solve problem.

Our gasoline contains 10%ethanol. Ethanol absorbs moisture. It causes a type of beige or green color grime. More and more of the new motorcycles sold today have fuel injection. Planned obsolescence and emissions control will soon carburetors.
I think carburetors will continue to need more cleaning because of ethanol compared to non ethanol gasolines.

I disassembled carburetor 5th time, as best I could. There is the tube that the main jet is attached/screwed onto.
I think it's name is emulsion tube. This has holes along the length and sides where air passes to mix with gasoline and air. The tiny holes on mine were blocked with what looked like beige hard chaulk. I used soft brush bristles and compressed air to clear these very tiny holes. Cleaned and reassembled the carburetor, reinstalled it and it ran well.

Long ago mechanics used to dissamble carburetor and drunk and brush off with lacquer thinner. I guess this is default as we don't have the Berryman chem dip in Philippines.
Cheers !

You can certainly do it and being a single carb makes it easier. However if you decide to have professionally cleaned on this bike or any others, I have used a guy from the Ninja 250 forum and can vouch for his work. The cost was reasonable considering there are 2 carbs versus a shop. He does electrostatic cleaning, wet test on bench to ensure no leaks, assembles with all new stainless allen head screws and returns your old hardware.

Turnaround time was fast, had mine back in less than a week from when I shipped it. I'm hobbling around on an injured knee and his information is downstairs but I can get it and post if anyone is interested.

You can now get a complete replacement carburetor for the XT225 for a tiny fraction of what Yamaha wants. https://www.ebay.com/i/223909437932 It might be the best way to go depending on what kind of condition the original carb is in. I have owned 3 XT225s and have had the carbs apart more times than I can remember. I'm down to one running bike and a parts bike now. I am partially disabled, and have a hard time getting on and off the XT. I used to get it going, ride it a few days, then let it sit till the carb got gummed up, then have to clean the carb, then let it happen again. I finally got tired of cleaning the carb, so I started draining the float bowl and filling it full of Seafoam through the fuel line if the bike sat for more than a few days, and I had no plan to ride it. I know the XT225 carb well, unfortunately I am not too good at explaining things. I found a few videos on Youtube that explain it fairly well. I use Supertech spray carb or brake cleaner from Walmart to clean carbs. It is an excellent cleaner, and since it is a spray, you don't need compressed air to blow out passages. But do be careful. I have gotten carb cleaner in my eyes several times, and it is extremely painful. It is easy to spray it in one place and have it come back out of another place and hit you right in the face. I suggest wearing a face shield or goggles of some kind.

I have a centerstand on my XT, but they are no longer available. You can use a dirt bike stand at home. But out on the road or trail, before I got the centerstand, I had a milk crate bolted to my luggage rack, and when I had a flat tire, which was quite often (it became less often after I started using 4mm thick tubes) I would empty the milk crate, unbolt it, flip it over, and lift the bike up on it. On another bike I had a long time ago, I welded an L shaped bracket with a hole in it to the right side of the swingarm, and when I needed to lift the rear of the bike, I would bolt a piece of 1/2" threaded rod to the bracket to hold the bike up. Since it was actually bolted onto the swingarm, the bike couldn't fall off of it.