I was thinking that.
But Nabil is on site.
He's given it a closer inspection than we can.

To adequately charge the battery, both voltage and amperage is required.
I can't figure out what would cause the system to provide adequate voltage, but inadequate amperage.

Again, weak battery is the Ockham's Razor answer.
That might be where I'd have started, after the obvious cable checks (insuring the 4 connections are good for the battery cables, etc.).
Good luck Nabil!

Thank you all for your input.

Currently my bike is running with only 2 wires from the stator to the regulator. I checked it by driving it for a complete one hour at a high speed and the bike engine did not stop at all until I switched the bike off.

I will continue checking the wires again and again hoping to find the problem. For now I will look for a new original battery (YTZ7S)and see if this will solve the problem.

Do you think that having the regulator fed by 2 wires from the stator will affect any electrical part in my bike?

It shouldn't be able to damage anything, if that's what you mean.
Whether it provides enough output to keep the battery charged, at the RPMs you tend to run the bike at, well that's another story.

Alexd

I'm still having the problem. Anyone can help. Any ideas, suggestion are most welcome

I believe the engine will run, regardless of the condition of the battery...or even if the battery should be removed while the engine is running.

Your charged battery, without an electrical load upon it, should have a voltage reading of between 12.5 and 13 volts. In order to charge, the "loaded" voltage at the battery needs to be another 1/2 to 1 volt minimum greater than this.

Alexd

This really sounds like someone who is lost and pretending to know what they are doing. There is no way you can diagnose the output of a stator from the spark colour it makes against the chassis. For a start, the chassis resistance varies depending on the position, paintwork etc.

If you regulator is getting hot then its having to turn unwanted charge into heat. That could be from a battery that is not taking the charge, or not having your lighting on when the bike is designed to have it on constantly.
By running with just two wires you are using just one phase instead of three, reducing the power applied to the regulator by more than half.

I have some reservations about the second paragraph, but I agree that looking at spark color sounds very much like a "sleight-of-hand" by someone that doesn't know what they're doing.

Alexd

Alexd / Tigersaw

Thank you for the support, I have a comment to Alexd when he said that:
"I believe the engine will run, regardless of the condition of the battery...or even if the battery should be removed while the engine is running."

Well, I replaced the battery by a fully charged one 12.48, hoping that it might solve the problem but no way, the overheating continued which confirms that it is not a battery problem. While Checking, the technician kept the bike idling and removed one battery Terminal and the bike stopped running which he did not expect it to stop. To this reason he suspects that there might be something wrong with the CDI internal circuits.

I kindly need someone's help in 2 things.

First, can anyone of you test this in his XT250: Keep your bike running (idling) and remove one of your battery terminals, will this kill the engine and stop it or will it continue running with one battery terminal removed?

Second: How can I check my bike's CDI if it is OK or not because I don't want to run into buying a third part which might not solve my problem like the stator and the regulator.

Here are my CDI photos







Your feedback will be extremely helpful as there is no XT250 in my area where I can check and swap parts with

Alshahoomi

I cannot help with the second part (other than it looks just like mine), but I was able to test my bike. I was 99% certain it would keep running based on working on other bikes and cars. I started my bike and disconnected the positive terminal. The bike did continue to run.

A quick google search turns up several posts that others on different bikes had the same issue and it turned out to be the rectifier/regulator. This site has more on testing the rectifier/regulator: http://www.justanswer.com/motorcycle/176m4-hi-suzuki-motorcycle-battery-dies.html

Sorry if this is not helpful, I'm not too electronically savvy.

Thank you for the quick response on checking the first part of my questions, then I have to look into why the engine stops when removing one battery terminal. I don't think this is a result of a bad regulator as I have replaced a new regulator and a new stator.

Could this be a CDI problem? If So, can anyone help me how to check it?

Alshahoomi