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#68876 - 09/05/10 01:35 AM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure ***** [Re: KLRchickie]
RPrider Offline
Member L1
*****

Registered: 12/05/09
Posts: 155
Loc: Colorado
Slojoe,

Just used your write up to change the fork seals on our XT. Very helpful. I was able to impact the bottom bolt lose very easily. I did leave the forks in the triple clamps so I could use a pulley puller to depress the cap and remove the clip. Reversed the process to reinstall the clip.

I did not get the measurement indicated once the 12oz of fork oil was put in. I always measure anyway and I raised it about 1/2" to help prevent bottoming.

Thanks, great write up.
_________________________
RP

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#69014 - 09/08/10 04:57 PM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: Slojoe]
Sis Offline
Bronze Member

Registered: 08/28/09
Posts: 519
Loc: Central Oregon
THANK YOU SLOJOE!!!
This is something I've been needing to do because unfortunately, I DO have a leak. I will certainly be referring to your write up when I do it and I appreciate the wonderful pics you've posted!
I'm trying not to dread it too much since I'll be treating myself to a new front tire at the same time:-)
_________________________
1995 XT225 Z1 mod, 130/42.5 re-jet, 2.5 turns out, Stearns ATV seat cover, Purple Gremlin!
1994 Suzuki DR350 (husband's), bone-stock, ummm...blue.

There is never a can or a can't but always a will or a won't.

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#75288 - 01/29/11 01:01 AM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: Sis]
simonpig Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 07/19/10
Posts: 4
Loc: Queens, NY
Thanks Slojoe, I used this thread to guide me through some Racetech Valve upgrade.

I got the part where you talked about the damper rod spinning inside the fork tube when trying to tighten the bottom damper bolt and was stuck since you didn't share with us how you managed to tighten it without being able to lock it still.

Here is what I did. After cursing and pacing around a bit.

:::::::: HINT ::::::::::

I took a 3/8" drive long socket 18" breaker bar with a flexible head. Wrapped electrical tape around the handle and built it up to a diameter a little bit bigger than the damper rod top opening. This provided the grip and friction I needed to then torque the bolt to the 17nm (I think that the correct torque spec). The beauty of this is that I placed an socket extention on the flexible head part and was able to use this as a handle to keep the rod still.

I did all of this myself and didn't have a vice. Would've gone super smooth with 2 people and a vice.
_________________________
'08 WR250R (his)
'01 XT225 (hers)

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#75847 - 02/07/11 12:55 AM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: simonpig]
JerryH Offline
Platinum Member
***

Registered: 12/19/08
Posts: 1508
Loc: Chandler, AZ 85224
Forks do not NEED to be difficult to change the oil in, the manufacturers just like making them that way, probably so you will take it to the dealer. I have owned a lot of bikes with drain screws at the bottom of the sliders (on the side, not on the very bottom), and caps on top where you could just pour in new oil without taking anything out. Taking your time, the whole job takes about 15 minutes, and there is no reason to remove the forks. It seems odd that Yamaha was nice enough to put grease fittings on the rear suspension linkage, but not use a simple way of changing the fork fluid. My original fluid is still in there, and the forks have been beat on hard. Still no seal leaks. I have aftermarket boots that I got from some off road site. They fit perfect, and are a lot thicker than the stock ones. Jerry.
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The above is my opinion. Your mileage may vary.
'01 XT225 street '94 XT225 mostly dirt




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#110310 - 04/02/13 04:49 PM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: Slojoe]
Matches Offline
Platinum Member
*****

Registered: 08/14/08
Posts: 1180
Loc: Wenatchee Washington
Raising this thread from the grave!


Awesome stuff, thanks again for posting this, came in very handy today!
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.

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#110311 - 04/02/13 06:50 PM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: Matches]
tuna Offline
Member L3
*****

Registered: 11/03/12
Posts: 352
Loc: Joshua Tree, Ca.
Where is the link of SloJoe's fork seals? Can somebody post it?
_________________________
Craig/Tuna

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#110337 - 04/03/13 03:21 AM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: tuna]
MikeC Offline
Gold Member
*****

Registered: 07/21/10
Posts: 730
Loc: Madras, Oregon
Hi Craig... I think it is just page One of this thread.
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Mike|Bike Map|Thread






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#110353 - 04/03/13 12:38 PM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: MikeC]
tuna Offline
Member L3
*****

Registered: 11/03/12
Posts: 352
Loc: Joshua Tree, Ca.
Originally Posted By: MikeC
Hi Craig... I think it is just page One of this thread.
Thanks Mike....
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Craig/Tuna

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#120060 - 03/14/14 05:48 PM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: tuna]
Herkjerk Offline
Member L1

Registered: 01/07/14
Posts: 119
Loc: Alaska
So all i have to do to put my new progressive springs in is take the the snap ring and cap off, take the springs out, drain the oil, add new spring, new oil, and replace cap and snap ring? seems super simple. I may just do it tonight.
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ON THE ROCKS

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#120061 - 03/14/14 06:28 PM Re: Slojoe's Fork Adventure [Re: Herkjerk]
Doc250 Offline
Platinum Member
*****

Registered: 09/27/07
Posts: 1643
Loc: Staffordshire. England.
Getting the bottom hex head screw out of forks is a real pain. When I did the forks on my TDM the only way I was able to get it out was by using an air impact gun. I applied a bit of pressure to the top of the tube by driving a broom handle in there. This did the job nicely. I used the same broom handle to get the bolt back in. Getting the torque right when gunning it back in so as not to overtighten it was a worry. Luckily the broom handle spun in the tube and applied enough torque.

However, I never had to get it back out again so who knows if it was overtightened.

The electric impact gun that Reggie has just bought would be ideal for this job.
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Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads!

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