Mic:
First off - great project and write up! Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

I bought valve adjustment tool a couple of months ago from Smokey Point Cycle Barn (local Yamaha dlr). They didn’t show anything in their catalogs but I had the number from the XT225 manual. They had to order it from their dist (K&L). Cost was under $10. Make sure that you get the valve cover gaskets also. Those were easy and they had them in stock. Maybe Matches can locate the tool.

Yah both All-Balls and Moose have kits... Had I known that Seal was going to be impossible to locate, I would have just went that route (Although it's much more expensive).

I cannot imagine that it is a "Special" Seal, especially since there are aftermarket kits available.

Meh

In all honesty, I'd be more surprised if Columbia Bearing DID'T have the seal - those guys are incredibly resourceful

Hi Mic,

glad you decided to bring the updates over to this site as well. Looking forward to following your adventure!

That's my thoughts. Once the new bearings are in, I'm going to measure and mic everything out and give them a call.

We used to do a lot of business through them on the farm, which is why I originally mentioned them. Never seem to remember them every saying "You're Screwed"

LOL!!

Well some quick updates/not so much updates...

I was unable to get to my buddies house to weld the fender mount cracks. So that is on hold until he gets back from his vacation. Boooo. Which is going to delay the whole powder coating portion.

The Acerbis Cyclops Headlight and Rally Pro hand guards came in. w00t!

I bought some new bars. I ended up going with a set of Sunline Fat Bars. I got a really good deal from my local MotoShop. I planned on getting some sort of raiser, so I picked up the TAG Universal Bar Mounts, which adapts it to fit the 1 1/8 bar. It raises it up just under an inch, which is good for me.

New clutch perch came in.

Spent the weekend working on 2 parts.

1, I pulled the carb completely apart, removed all the gaskets, plastics parts, and o-rings. I then tossed all the metal bits into a carb dip, soaked for awhile, cleaned up, and re-dipped it.

Everything came out nice and clean. I replaced all of the o-rings, inspected everything else, and buttoned her back up. Hopefully it will work well enough until the rebuild kit comes in.

I also unwrapped the wire harness, to start cleaning it up, as well as some modifications.

The wire harness was diiiiiirty.

I gave it a nice bath in WD-40 to help loosen up the adhesive left before from the tape, and penetrate into the wire. Then I soaked it in a heavy mixture of dish soap and water for an hour.

Rinsed it off, beat it around a bit to shake the water from the connectors, and hung it up last night to dry.

Before I wrap it all back up with new wrap, I'm going to run all of the wires needed for the new Headlight assembly, Aux lights (1 Driving, 1 Fog), and grip warmers.

I picked up a couple relays. Stupid local NAPA. I told them exactly what I needed. A SPST 4-pin, and a SPDT-CO 5 Pin. The brought me out a 4 pin and a 5 pin. Unfortunately, I could not check the 5 pin well enough, cause it was in one of those stupid sealed plastic things that we all love to hate.

I got to the shop and when I opened it, it was just a SPST 5 pin, double output. Arghhh!

So I'm just going to order it off the interwebs.

I'll be using the STDP to run the high/low beams, which will also control the Fog/Driving, so that you cannot have Fog on while High beam is on, as well as have Driving on while Lowbeam is on.

The SPST will be used for the Heaters + an Aux outlet.

I picked up a small fuse box. And then after I got it to the shop, I realized I wanted something even smaller, so I'm going to order a 4 port, mini-blade fuse box, instead of a standard blade fuse box.

I was going to go with inline fuses, but I figured I could find someplace to stash the little mini-blade one, and then I could cut over all fuses to it, so it gives a central location for fuses. Makes it much easier that way.

I also pulled apart the handle bar controls. The left side and the right side, and cleaned those up.

The left side was so dirty inside, that the blinker switch refused the work. It never got used anyways in its prior life.

I pulled both sets apart, soaked everything in WD40 for awhile, removed it all, wiped it all off, and proceeded to put everything back together with healthy doses of dielectric grease.

Everything switches soooo smooth now.

The bearings came in. I still need to track down a seal. I was meaning to get measurements over the weekend, but it slipped my mind.

That's my current small update.

Hi Mic,

you're getting there matey.

Looking forward to more updates & piccies.

Mic - Super intense restoration. I've not seen anything this "grounds up" on here ever. Hats off to you for undertaking such a labor intensive project. It's nice to see someone do work at this level and share it with our group. Good luck and thanks for posting here.

Sounds like she's coming along nicely. I can't wait to start seeing some pics of the progress and final outcome....