If you use JB Weld the standard formula is stronger than JB Quick. The boss that holds the float pin is delicate. To remove it, you need to use a penetrating oil first on the pin. Back up the bosses on the inside and outside. Use an automatic punch for a quick shot on the pin to break it loose. That pin isn't pressed in but sits comfortably in the holes. It's too bad the boss was broken by abuse. I'd say a JB Weld repair should work very well. Get the metal clean and be careful to not apply too much epoxy to the mating surfaces. Doing so will throw the holes out of alignment. When that sets, create a small bead around the break for extra strength. Full cure time should be 24 hours at room temp.
It wouldn't hurt to use a small drill bit to chase the pin holes so the pin slides in freely. Do this by hand and don't enlarge the holes. You're just looking to burnish the IDs. Always park your bike with fuel turned off. Good luck.
Very good advice for the fix.
I would definitively do the above fix if the Carb
is still in good shape after the repair and cleaning it up.
I would relegate it to use as a 'spare', only.
Hard off-road riding, out in the middle of nowhere
and the boss fails to stay in place - FUEL EVERYWHERE.
If the epoxied boss binds the float and keeps the float
from free-pivot then, possibly - FUEL EVERYWHERE.
and the third one:
WHO - winds up doing the repair ???
If you leave it up to that same 'mechanic',
well...WHO knows what will happen???
Keep looking for another OEM Carb to rebuild.
or Chinese to get you by.
The FSM for the XT225 says to remove the Pin in ONLY
one direction. I do not know if the 250 carb is the same.
Left TO Right is the correct way to remove the Pin.
From the Needle and Seat side.
I use a Small Hammer. SMALL.
and a Small Punch. SMALL
You do not need a lot of iron, to remove
Light tapping till the pin starts to move.
As the pin starts to show on the right side,
I use a Needle-Nose Plier or small Dykes
to gently pry it out.