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Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149704 12/24/20 12:52 AM
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I hate those shunt regulators. I call them "short" regulators, because that's exactly what they do. The stator output does not change, except when it drops at very low rpm. The regulator doesn't actually regulate anything. It literally shorts it to ground. It is usually mounted in a heat sink, and is designed to turn excess current into heat. I had one get so hot it set the bike on fire once, and destroyed part of the wiring harness. That seems like the most likely cause. It will destroy batteries and burn out bulbs, and can melt wires. You said the headlight got really bright then burned out. Too much voltage would do exactly that. The regulator is actually called an R/R, which stands for Regulator/Rectifier. Aside from keeping the voltage where it is supposed to be, it also converts AC current from the stator to DC.


The above is my opinion. Your mileage may vary.
1994/2001 custom built XT225 with a ton of aftermarket parts.



Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149772 12/29/20 03:48 PM
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Laziness has gotten un the way- since I put the new battery in and new voltage regulator and new headlight I've really only read it twice. Once around the block and another ride doing obstacle jumps for about 30min. So far no problems. But I didn't reinstall the old one and run any tests. Also didnt want it to kill my new battery or bulb! And didnt want to remove all that during the holiday. I think it was the regulator

Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149788 12/29/20 09:25 PM
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Glad it's working, but you might want to check the charging voltage at the battery with a voltmeter. It will actually show a voltage drop at idle, since the lights and ignition use more power than the stator can put out. At around 3000 rpm, voltage should come up to just over 14 volts at the battery terminals.

I have a Kawasaki Vulcan 750, which is known for stator failures. I've had mine fail once. Replacing it is a nightmare, you have to remove the engine to get the rotor cover off, and to do that you have to pretty much disassemble the whole bike. Since I use this bike for long distance touring, I permanently mounted a voltmeter on the handlebars. If the voltage should suddenly drop, I would immediately turn off the entire lighting system with a switch I installed. The ignition should keep going for a long time on a fully charged battery. I am thinking about doing the same thing on the XT. I ride out into the AZ desert alone, and if the charging system should fail, it wouldn't take long for the lights to drain the battery, leaving me stranded.


The above is my opinion. Your mileage may vary.
1994/2001 custom built XT225 with a ton of aftermarket parts.



Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149794 12/30/20 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FL.SandBandit
...I put the new battery in and new voltage regulator and new headlight... Once around the block and another ride doing obstacle jumps for about 30min. So far no problems... I think it was the regulator..

Good for you. Looks like you've solved the problem. It's nice when things finally come together and work like they should again!..


The voyage of discovery that truly matters is not in seeking new lands but in seeing with new eyes.
Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149812 12/31/20 06:24 PM
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Any ideas of where to get a voltage regulator that is cheap and will last?
We have an 07 xt225 that has ran great no problems for a couple years and about 5000miles, total of 8000miles on it.
I've had to replace batteries before but a few months ago I was riding and all the lights went out - battery was completely dead. So I went through a fiasco of bad batteries before getting a new one online wouldn't stay charged so u bought a cheap voltage/regulator after reading some stuff online. (Actuall bought 2 cause they were 12$ each and I didnt know if the stator would kill this one too, then I'd still have a good one! Right?)
Well I used the spare one on the 05 we talked about earlier-
Yesterday while riding the 07 I crashed after 30-45 min of trails and it took me 1-2 min to get my leg unstuck then I realized I hit the kill switch but not the key switch. After I got the bike back up it didnt have enough juice to make the starter relay click 5times. The light still came on.
So after a push start and getting it home I test like JerryH says (thanks jerry!) And it shows 8.5volts while running, I hooked up to the battery charger and pressed the voltage button it tried to charge 1st then hit the button again and it shows me the current voltage- and I heard a click sounded like from the voltage regulator? Then the battery is showing 12.2 volts on the multimeter and now the regulator is trying to maintain 12.2. (I think it should be 14?)
Either way I'm not confident in the regulator for 12$ but i also dont want to buy for 125$
Anyone have any ideas ? Is riding offroad alot going to keep frying these things due to heat? Is it really that much different from 125$ part to a 12$ part? I figured that was just dealer mark up as usual. I'm willing to pay more but not if I keep killing them. Seems like to many in such a short period if time on two bikes.

Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149813 12/31/20 06:47 PM
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Is the $12 voltage regulator you used in the '05 XT working well? If it is then it's doing its job and then some. What would be the downside to getting another $12 regulator (or two) and using it on your '07? Either it works or it doesn't, but you're still money ahead, it seems to me, given the 10 times greater price the dealer wants for a regulator, going with an item you know works on your '05 to get your '07 up and running again.

As Jerry would say, the above is just my 'opinion', 'your mileage may vary!'..


The voyage of discovery that truly matters is not in seeking new lands but in seeing with new eyes.
Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149815 12/31/20 10:31 PM
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This is just my opinion, but I would not trust a $12 R/R (regulator/rectifier) yes a new stock one is super expensive ( I found it at cheapcycleparts.com for $111, but then there is shipping) but in my case, if I'm out in the middle of the desert and it fails and ruins the battery, I could be in big trouble, since I cannot walk out. I try to stay in cell phone range, but in some places it can be spotty. Even if it failed along the side of a paved road, I would have to call a tow truck to come and get it. So for me, for safety reasons, I would go with the oem part.

The voltage should be at least 14V at around 3000 rpm with a properly functioning charging system. If it isn't at least very high 13s, something is wrong. Since the XT does not have a tachometer, you would have to use a clamp on tachometer if you want exact rpms. But in my case, I just hook up the meter, and watch it while revving the engine in neutral. It hits about 14.2V. That is using what I believe is the original R/R from the '94 model. It had 1800 miles on it when I bought it, and now has just over 22K miles, so it has held up well. A R/R can fail in two different ways. It might fail completely, letting no current through, or it might fail to regulate the voltage, and allow the full output of the stator (which can be anywhere from 20V to over 40V depending on the stator) to reach the main DC electrical system (battery, lights, etc) which can do a lot of damage.

It has been my experience that an R/R is rarely ever the problem if you are getting low charging voltage to the battery. If the battery is known to be good, and it still does not show at least very close to 14V when you rev it, the problem is more likely to be the stator.

Back when I used to own a Goldwing, and belonged to a couple of Goldwing forums, many members were having trouble with cheap electrical parts failing. Most of them are made in china. The general consensus of the forum was to use oem parts. IMO, a decent R/R cannot be sold for $12. There is a reason why it is so cheap. As best I can remember, I have never had a R/R fail on a Japanese bike, though I have had at least 3 stator failures. Stators can be damaged by overloading the electrical system over a period of time with add on accessories. They overheat and eventually burn out.


The above is my opinion. Your mileage may vary.
1994/2001 custom built XT225 with a ton of aftermarket parts.



Re: Head light burn out 3rd time.Need electrical help? [Re: FL.SandBandit] #149816 12/31/20 11:35 PM
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I don't disagree. An super expensive new OEM regulator should, given it's excessive cost, prove more dependable than a $12 item. That's why I suggested it might be smart to purchase 2 of the $12 units. If one goes out you've got a spare to fall back on.

As long as the $12 regulator in your '05 is working well, to me at least picking up another 1 (or 2 to have a backup) at that price seems reasonable enough. You're not out of pocket like you'd be with the $100++ part, and as long as they do the job you're good to go.

Again, that's just me. Sometimes being frugal works out, sometimes it doesn't. But so called OEM parts sometimes do and sometimes don't work out either.

In the end it's your call. I wish you all the best getting your '07 back up and going, whatever you decide..


The voyage of discovery that truly matters is not in seeking new lands but in seeing with new eyes.
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