I now wear thick sole leather work boots for riding. They also have non slip soles. I needed to raise the shift lever a little. I moved it one spline on the shift shaft. If you use the turnbuckle linkage to adjust the shift lever, it changes the distance between the lever pivot point and the shift shaft, which can cause shifting problems. The angles between the end of the rod, the vertical part that attaches to the shift shaft, and the vertical part of the shift lever should be exactly 90 degrees. Lengthening or shortening the rod will change that angle.
Hi Jerry !
I just ordered the DMO Foot Pegs also and will be adjusting the shift level higher since I don't like the low position of it anyway. When I blew up pictures on the net of stock XT225's it did indeed look like the linkage's were 90 Deg. to the shaft as mine is. So my question was .....do I use the the turnbuckle/ barrel nut ( Muniac) or the spline on the shifter (Your advice). Instead of starting an argument about how many teeth are in a horses mouth.....I decided to go look and see for myself while taking some measurements. What I found surprised me !
I just got my 2005 XT225 with 1600 miles on it about 2 weeks ago. It appears , so far, to be all stock. My shift linkages are both 90 degrees to the shift shaft(as you say should be) and the shift foot lever appears to be level or parallel to the ground. The problem with this is... that the rubber part used to shift with my foot is 1 1/4" below my foot peg. The turnbuckle/barrel nut is adjusted all the way in meaning that my shift lever is at it's lowest possible position. The up shift movement is aprox. 7/8" and the down shift movement aprox. 3/4"
The first thing I did was move the spline 1 tooth clockwise. That in turn moved both shift linkages 11 1/4 degrees (360 degrees / 32 splines = 11.25 Degrees) from perpendicular to the shift shaft and raised the foot shifter 7/8". My up shift movement was 7/8" and my down shift movement was 13/16" (I was only eyeballing with a tape rule so basically the same as stock) Still it was 3/8 " below my foot peg in it's untouched position ! I wouldn't want to move it another spline tooth because the further away from perpendicular to the shift shaft the transmission lever gets the less the mechanical advantage.
Next I moved the splined lever back to it's vertical position (where it was) and adjusted the turnbuckle/barrel nut as far out as I could while maintaining what I thought would be a decent amount of thread engagement. HERE IS WHERE IT GETS INTERESTING.... That moved the shift lever up 1 7/8". Now my shift lever was 5/8" ABOVE my foot peg. Another interesting thing I hadn't thought of is that the lever comming out of the transmission obviously stayed vertical and at approximately 90 degrees to the shift shaft. (although mathematically the shaft angle must change the amount is negligible) Only the linkage opposite the transmission lever changed its angle from the 90 Degree position by about 24 Degrees. (if 7/8"=11.25 degrees then 1 7/8" = 24.1 Degrees)
I would prefer this method of adjustment if it's enough to satisfy. The only trade off is the movement to up shift increases about 1/8" and the movement to down shift increases by about 1/6". Negligible in my book :-)
At this point I left the turnbuckle set to max and moved the transmission lever 1 spline tooth CW as before and as expected it moved the foot shift lever up another 7/8" as before. This raised the foot shifter to 1 1/2" above the foot peg. I don't think I would want to move more than 1 spine tooth at the trans shift lever because rotational forces are starting to convert to linear forces. To see this yourself....rotate the transmission lever to the horizontal position (90 Degrees) and you see all the rotational force has been converted leaving NO rotational force possible with the shift shaft.
NOTE: All the measurements were taken quickly by eyeballing with a tape rule but I think close enough to answer some questions.
THE TAKE AWAY FOR ME: If I need to raise the foot shift lever 1 7/8" or less, I'll just use the turnbuckle/barrel nut as Scott suggested. If I need to move it more then 1 7/8" then obviously I would need to move the transmission lever 1 spline tooth plus use the turnbuckle/barrel nut to get what I need and try it out.
Hope this helps !