I picked up the bike just over a week ago and have been playing triage ever since for a repair list/order.

I am leaking fuel from the carb, so the carb rebuild is on top of the list.
At the same time, the petcock needs to be replaced as the lever was broken off at some point and the prior owner used vice grips to shut the fuel off.

Meanwhile, I have a pretty interesting oil leak. It only leaks when the oil/bike is hot. Best I can tell, its leaking around bolts in a couple places. I've read that there are a handful of O rings on this bike that just...fail, and I'm hoping its that easy. Any idea what may cause leaks at the bolts in these pictures?

It's generally easiest to trace the source of an oil leak by cleaning everything up, then riding (or sometimes just idling) the bike as normal. Then inspecting for leaks early on.
parts fince
But in this case I think it is almost certain you will just need to replace part# 93210-25711-00 (ref.#3 in the diagram). Almost certainly where the oil is coming from in the first pic, but also a good chance it is responsible for all the oil your seeing.

On another note I would suggest not doing any work on the bike until (or unless you have) acquired a service manual.

Also on the petcock issue. The plastic knob can be replaced by it's self, if that is the part that broke. And if it doesn't go on due to tool damage from the vice grips, you should be able to file the damage out, so the knob would fit.

By 'eck worra orribull filthy bike. Poor wee thing needs some love.

Like brer says, when it's clean be able to see where the oil leaks from without all that crud soaking it up.

Like the guys said, you need to clean the bike thoroughly to accurately locate the source of the leak. Brer is likely right with his suggestion for where the leak is and how to remedy it. Get the bike up on a stand and power wash it clean. That'll give you a more accurate view of what you're dealing with..

Thats about the best possible news I could hope for. I do not have a service manual and have had some trouble finding one. I've already learned (and am still in the process of learning) an extremely difficult lesson about the dangers of over torqueing the bolts on the oil filter cap.

The petcock has been so abused over time that it rotates 360 degrees. It was a cheap enough part that simply replacing it is probably a good idea in general.


Yes it does. Its in pretty bad shape. It only has 5,000 miles on it, but looks like 10-12 times that. I swapped the air filter and changed the oil, and I've never seen filthier filters before in my life.
This is my todo list so far:
- Rebuild carb (fuel leaking from Pilot screw)
- Replace starter motor O Ring (as per this post)
- Replace broken (cracked open)speedo with Vapor Speedo/Tach
- Replace petcock
- Replace/rewire taillight (green wire is not connected, all wires to light are electrical taped together)
- Retrofit a lower profile replacement for the rear light/plate holder (existing one is snapped in half just below the light and the housing is dangerously loose)
- Replace blinkers w/ LED and resistors(both on right side are cracked open)
- Replace headlight (light itself is cracked and the bulb is not at all bright enough)
- Replace front brake lever (existing lever is broken and 80% of the lever is MIA)
- Replace clutch lever and clutch pearl
- Swap stock handlebar for high rise bars
- Replace mirrors
- New plastics
- DMO oversized pegs

Crickey. bit of graft to do there, keep ya going over the winter months. Be like a new'n come summer. Great guys on here if ya need any help. Best tip I've found is, run it dry after every ride, it always starts fine next time then.

We have to take care with them filter screws or it's a big repair job aint it. My way is a 4" driver to tighten, then I know they'll always come undone with a 10" driver. Torque reaction I call it, long screwdrivers undo tight stuff.

I actually broke both of the bolts while torqueing them down. Any tips on removing broken bolts, one of which is so deep you can't even see it?

There are three bolts on that cover. One passes through an O-ring in the engine case. Which two did you break off?

The two on top

Ouch. That's gonna suck.

Those bolts (and the bolts for the starter) are long and thin and don't take kindly to excessive torque. I put anti-seize on everything.

Oil filter bolts... Obviously soak it in good penetrating oil. I'd start with a flat bottomed carbide burr for a dremel and try to flatten the end of the bolt. That will help the drill bit not walk around while trying to drill the bolt. Then drill it for an EZ out. That will take a VERY steady hand. Go real slow. A drill guide might also help.

You might try using a manual impact driver with the EZ out as the hammering may help break it loose. Laying the bike on it's side might help as well. Drilling vertically is easier than horizontally.

Some of the boys have done this, I haven't, they'll help you out.

For the one that's broke off deep inside, I'd guess a bit of a jig using a piece of rod exact dia with a hole drilled down centre of it, have to be spot on accurate, like made in a lathe if you got a chum in Engineering.

Need to ensure no swarf from the drilling gets lost internally.

Here's a video that demonstrates techniques for Removing Broken Bolts. Watch, listen and learn. Best of luck with this..

The situation is the engine case is soft aluminum and the bolts are steel. I'm also not sure if the holes are blind which means you don't want to drill through the engine case. You'll need to know the depth of the hole. Perhaps someone here can back out their bolts and provide a depth measurement. Something to use as a not to exceed drill depth.

You'll need to make a guide for the drill as hand holding it is out of the question. I'd make the guide no less than an inch to hold the drill. This can be made from steel rod or square stock. The next challenge is finding a way to fix the guide so it's centered over the female threads. I think they would be 6mm x 1 but someone needs to verify that. The tap drill for 75% thread is either a 5mm or #9 size.

Facing off the cross section of the broken screw will prevent a drill from walking off center. If you can drill the hole out with a tap drill you can "chase" the threads with a spiral tap. As most of the screw metal will be gone. There are taps that have a drill point. One of these may be of value to get a centered starting point. You'll need to be careful not to tear out good threads. And also that there are enough threads to secure the tap. Caution advised.

The other approach is to drill for an easy out. This might be a good first attempt. If the easy out drill hole is centered you can tap drill it later if the easy out fails to remove the broken screw.

Heat applied to the engine case may help loosen the screw. As a last resort, you can do a helicoil thread repair. Any of the above requires a centered drill hole through the screw. Any and all efforts should be made to accomplish this as it leaves the door open to options. If the drill runs off center and starts to drill away the aluminum that will be a bad scene. And once that starts it's very difficult to correct.

As a general rule, I'd never torque bolts for a cover like that. Just a little snug is always good enough. If a bolt loosens the worst that can happen is you'll leak a bit of oil. Far less serious than a snapped off screw.

Good luck with the repair.

Update:
I was able to get the little screw off by lining up a drill bit with a centerpunch. I couldn't get into where the bigger bolt was though and took off the crank case cover. Once removed, it was easy enough to centerpunch the other screw I then had line of sight on and drilled it out as well. Neither bolt needed an easy out. They came out with the drill bit.

So now I have a new gasket ordered and will wait for that to come in.

All told, this oil change has cost me around $110 in tools and parts. haha

Well done that man, takes some skill & a bit of luck to get them out without damage to the ally.

Good on ya for solving the problem, and welcome to the "Woops, I Shouldn't Have Done That Club"!

How many times over the years I've leaped into something before looking it over carefully and cost myself time and money trying to 'fix' a situation of my own creation I can't say. Do my best to avoid such mistakes, but even rocket scientists get it disastrously wrong on occasion, so our club members include some of the best!

Glad you got the screws out. Good job so now you can move forward. Ride safely.

quaziau, you got me motivated. I like to change my oil & filter every 600'ish miles (1,000km's) but last time out I got home cold, tired & lazy. So this morning after reading your post, I got multiple layers on & set off to warm her up for a service. out at 10.30am 2°c after 77 miles in sunshine but low sun in my eyes half the time. Back at 3.15pm into my garage at 5°c, like a sauna eh. Anyway got amongst it, nice clean oil & new filter, Lubly jubly. Just a tad over normal at 681 miles.

Cheers m8.

Wow, I'm glad it was easier than expected. An expensive oil change for sure, but I still think you got off easy.

Yes, bet they don't get broke again. Nobody can be that lucky twice.

Update 2:
So now I'm rebuilding the carb. I realized immediately why it was leaking from the pilot screw. The pilot screw wasn't there at all. At some point, the prior owner had removed the cap, and then removed the pilot screw entirely.

Does anyone know the stock settings? 2 or 3 turns out? Generally I understand you would replicate the factory setting, but in this case, there was no pilot screw at all so I can't use the prior setting as a guide.

Additionally, should the throttle be a little open or totally closed at idle? The previous owner may have messed with the setting of the throttl screw block. Talking about the restictor screw that blocks the throttle from totally closing the valve at idle.

The stock setting on the pilot screw varies from bike to bike. Mine was at 2.75 turns out. Most are setting theirs around 2.5-3 turns out (whether it was their stock setting or not).

" Additionally, should the throttle be a little open or totally closed at idle"
If you are referring to the butterfly valve on the carb (as opposed to the throttle grip on the handle bar), it should be a little open.

The "restrictor screw" you speak of is the idle adjustment screw.

Yes, 2-3 turns is a good starting point. But keep in mind that the pilot screw isn't just a screw. There's a tiny o-ring, spring, and washer. I'd guess the spring broke which allowed the screw to vibrate loose and fall out. Be sure to clean that passage thoroughly as well.

Following up on this post. I've completed all the changes listed above but the retrofitted rear taillight. Also changed from 13/45 sprockets to 15/58 and replaced the drive chain. Additionally I moved from the shinco 50/50s to the Pirelli M21 and Trackmaster 769 combo that seems so popular. Lastly I ended up bypassing the neutral, kickstand, and starter circuit relays.

You guys were right about the starter motor O ring. Replacing it fixed my oil leak.

The bike now runs like a dream. Perfect idle, easy start, smooth ride. Now I just need a weekend without rain to actually get the thing onto the trails.

Great to see a project like you've tackled with your bike nearing completion. Sounds like it's a sweet ride now, so enjoy it to the fullest and ride safely!..