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#146203 - 10/15/19 12:34 AM Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal
NewRiderXT Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 09/16/19
Posts: 14
Loc: CT
So I had replaced my rear sprocket and some time after that I discovered one of the studs missing and all the nuts relatively loose. I didn't use loctite and the locking tabs were not reinstalled quite tight enough.

Stupid error on my part since I didn't use a torque wrench when installing... *face palm* Lesson learned and lucky not happened while riding.

So I sheared one of the studs in the wheel hub, which I'm hoping will be not an issue removing... Are the thread orientations the same one both sides of the stud? I'm intending to try and use heat + left handed drill bit. Anyone know if these things are hardened? I realize its going to have some kind of loctite from the factory that I need to overcome via heat.

I have not removed the sprocket yet to assess the damage to the other studs, but I've seen a lot of products for rear sprocket bolts when I search rear sprocket studs, anyone consider switching over to bolts from studs?

Anyone use the nylon locking nuts for these studs? The locking tabs have seen better days and I'm a little aprehensive of a repeat, though I will be using the torque wrench this time around...

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#146214 - 10/16/19 12:19 AM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
peejman Offline
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Registered: 06/03/13
Posts: 3293
Loc: East TN USA
Bummer. I wouldn't expect anything unusual about replacing the studs. Nylock nuts should be a good substitute.
_________________________
This shall pass, be still and know.
2006 XT225, UNI filter, ProTaper bars, MSR handguards, SS front brake line, Shinko 241's.

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#146218 - 10/16/19 08:28 AM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
#brer15 Offline
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Registered: 10/03/16
Posts: 586
Loc: Atlanta,GA
^ I don't think Nylock nuts can handle the torque required for that application.
_________________________
2004 XT225 purchased new in October 2004 0 miles. Current miles over 27,000.

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#146219 - 10/16/19 11:18 AM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
Paul49 Offline
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Registered: 07/22/11
Posts: 1755
Loc: High Peak, UK
Needs the locking tabs, not difficult to make if you can't source them.
_________________________
1958 Ariel 650 FH, 2014 Tiger Sport1050, 1995 XT225 Serow, Tiger 800 XRx.

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#146224 - 10/16/19 03:36 PM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
Muniac Offline


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Registered: 01/16/04
Posts: 5834
Loc: Montrose, CO
The hub and some of the associated parts are molded powdered metal and "relatively" soft as metals go. So be careful drilling out blind holes. I doubt those studs are hardened. The part number for the stud/bolt is 90116-08425-00. The lock washer is 90215-08160-00. Both are listed as available.

A Dremel tool is helpful to reface the broken cross section. That so, you locate a center to properly start a twist drill. Try not to damage the hole or surrounding metal by letting the drill run off center. Use WD-40 (or penetrating oil) on the threads and an easy out. Heat on the female threads will help. Applying lubricant and tapping may help it soak in and loosen the threads. Letting it soak overnight isn't a bad idea either. You want to free up the metal interface just enough so you can back the broken stud out. Left/right threads, I'm not sure about. If you order replacements, you'll have that answer.

Wouldn't hurt to inspect the other studs too.

Self locking nuts don't need to be nylon. Some are available with metal swages.

If you have an 1996 XT350, the rear wheel parts diagram is HERE. Good luck!
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#146232 - 10/17/19 12:29 AM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: Muniac]
NewRiderXT Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 09/16/19
Posts: 14
Loc: CT
Thanks Muniac, I figured there wouldn't be anything special involved, but figured I would put it out here in case some learned something relevant the hard way.

I have the oem parts on order ( including a Speedo cable that coincidently broke on my last ride!). I'm glad I tore everything down to take a closer look, because 2 of the other studs have slightly loosened in the him side. I'll pull those two and take a look at their thread orientation. I'm hoping there isn't damage to those two as well, since I already ordered the single stud and screw...

I didn't realize that they were blind holes actually, so thanks for mentioning that. Unfortunately the stud broke off about 1/8" or so past the hub face. I've had mixed luck extracting things in the past (stuck pilot jet was surprisingly easy while my float valve seat was amazingly difficult! And while I did damage the surrounding metal slightly getting that thing out luckily the o-ring still made a seal...).

So I'm always a little nervous about these things. A replacement hub/wheel isn't exactly cheap...

Have it soaking in PB blaster now and will hopefully try and tackle the removal tomorrow.

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#146238 - 10/17/19 04:29 PM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
Muniac Offline


Platinum Member
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Registered: 01/16/04
Posts: 5834
Loc: Montrose, CO
Glad to help out. I hope the repairs go well and you can get back up and running soon. Thread extractions have never offered comfort to me. Some go well while others are a nightmare. And you never know which is which. Be prepared for the worst and hope for the best is all I can offer.
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Be There or Be Nowhere! A Few Adventures & Video

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#146247 - 10/19/19 03:40 PM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: Muniac]
NewRiderXT Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 09/16/19
Posts: 14
Loc: CT
One more stupid question regarding the install of the new studs. I should obviously be using loctite, should I pick up some of the red permanant stuff for this application, or would the blue stuff be sufficient?

Is there a listed torque spec for the hub side of these stud threads?

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#146248 - 10/19/19 06:11 PM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
Muniac Offline


Platinum Member
*****

Registered: 01/16/04
Posts: 5834
Loc: Montrose, CO
Given the application, I'd use the red loctite. Heat applied will break that down should you need to repeat the repair. I assume you're doing all the studs? Would be the prudent thing to do. If one busted the others may not be far behind.

I no longer have my shop manual so someone else will need to look this up.

There may or may not be a torque spec for the studs. The nuts would have one for sure. I always tighten sprocket nuts to a "tight feeling". I do the same with lug nuts on the car. So I can get them off with a 4-way lug wrench. As for a new assembly, you should recheck the nuts after several rides. Stuff may shift and seat initially then settle down. Good luck!

PS: Your question isn't stupid, we're all learning about things as we paddle in unfamiliar waters.
_________________________
Evolve & Simplify
Be There or Be Nowhere! A Few Adventures & Video

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#146249 - 10/19/19 09:29 PM Re: Sheared Rear Sprocket Stud Removal [Re: NewRiderXT]
#brer15 Offline
Bronze Member
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Registered: 10/03/16
Posts: 586
Loc: Atlanta,GA
I'm not seeing a torque value for the hub side of the studs. Only a notation to use locktite. I would assume it to be the same 24ft.lbs. torque that is on the nuts.
_________________________
2004 XT225 purchased new in October 2004 0 miles. Current miles over 27,000.

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