Enclosed is a step by step process for conducting a valve adjustment on a Yamaha XT-225. The Bike in the photo’s is my 2005 model. Make sure the bike is in neutral, fuel shut off, and is cold (not ran in the past ~8 hours). Please feel free to add to the steps with you tips, tricks, and tribal knowledge for the benefit of all!

Remove side covers, Phillips head screw driver required.

Remove seat. 10 mm socket + rachet works best

Looks like this now

tank side covers next, 10 mm + socket with 4" extension, pull away from tank to release attach stake

covers off

Unhook fuel line from tank

use rag to catch dripping gas

Tank bolt next 10mm size

this bracket may lift with the tank. That is ok

If lifted

Tank attach parts

tank with attach parts off

Make sure tank valve is not supporting tank weight, let overhang like this

Need to remove this plug

need to remove this plug also

Almost ready to remove valve cover, need allen socket head

Start on right side of bike, 5x bolts, all of same size (diameter and grip length), so ok to mix up. Front cover houses exhaust valve, rear cover houses intake valve. Trying first bolt on exhaust side. 3x on exhaust, 2x on intake

First bolt on intake side.

not enough clearance to use socket setup for other 3x bolts, so must use allen key.

exhaust cover off

intake cover off

All engine access parts off, will inspect later

Intake valve closeup

Attach 17mm socket to this bolt, use small 4" extension

Like this, rotate Anti-clockwise while looking in the view port hole

look here

these are the 3 radial groves on the flywheel, the one in the middle is top dead center (TDC), however a four stroke engine may read bottom dead center ( I’m not that sure about this statement). However, it is not important. What is important is to check the exhaust gap while you have the center groove visible. If you can get a .003" feeler gage in the gap your at TDC. If not rotate the flywheel another 360 degrees anti-clockwise and check the gap. This time it will be there. So, you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. By the way don’t use the rachet function on your tool. Once you see the flywheel notches, just spin your tool one full revolution to see notches again!

Need specifications for valve gaps. Do exhaust first .006 to .007 inch

Need right feeler gages

Exhaust gap

Too big needs adjustment, can easily fit .007 inch gage

Need valve tool. Some folks use needle nose. I found this tool make job a lot easier. Use 3mm side. It will hold the valve adjust bolt steady while you tighten the valve lock bolt.

[ July 08, 2006: Message edited by: klm4755 ]

[ July 08, 2006: Message edited by: klm4755 ]

loosen lock bolt with 10mm open end socket, adjust valve with tool, check with feeler gage. One gap is correct, Hold valve steady with valve tool and tighten lock nut. Don’t let valve spin with locknut. This is where the tool is handy!

Need to tighten lockbolt with torque wrench 10 ft*lbs, but torque wrench will not fit so.....

Use this!

Torque wrench in action

feeler gages for intake. Gap between .002-.004 inch Only had a .002 and .003 inch. Will work.

Gap too big, need to adjust

adjusting intake valve

tighten intake

torque locknut

torque wrench on intake valve

Inspect exhaust valve cover, seals look good

inspect intake valve cover, OK too

Clean valve cover interface

put covers back on

flywheel cover back on

torque the 2x right side allen cover screws intake and exhaust 7.2 ft*lbs. Other 3x will need to be attached by allen key, no room for torque wrench.

Other side

seat on

use torque wrench 5 ft*lbs

attach fuel like hook up, side covers, seat

All buttoned up! Ready to test ride. Results -No pings thru any of the throttle/gear ranges.

Hi Chaps,

who needs a Haynes or Clymer workshop manual when we've got KLM?

Well done Good Sir and keep up the fantastic work.

Great post,

Just one thing though.
Shouldn't the crank be rotated Anti-Clockwise and NOT Clockwise?

Regards,
Dave

Want more midrange? close the intake valve sooner. How wider gap(within the spec) will change the duration of cam on the intake. With a compression tester you can see the added pressure(static) You dont need to do the wrench on the crank thing. High gear can be used to bump the engine around. Exhaust open then intake open and close is compression.I still like the ol thumb on the spark plug hole and puchhhh. I think I might be on compression. Once I can obtain a compression tester I will share my results. Really cool step by step. The cam chain (should be able to withstand backwards cranking)but not recommended.