Enclosed is a step by step procedure for adjusting the main shock absorber of the XT-225. I’ll be using my 2005 model for the illustration. There are 2x adjustments to be made. First I’ll adjust the spring preload, then the rebound damping dial. The most difficult part of the procedure is breaking the locknut hold on the spring preload nut. No need to remove any parts to gain access. No need to jack the bike up.

the lower shock area of interest (view from right side looking to the left). The lower threaded part is the rebound adjusting dial. The middle nut is the preload locknut. The upper nut is the spring preload adjustment nut. Got all that?

Get out this tool. Tried other type of tools (plyers, pipe wrenches...) Nothing else could grip the ribs of the nuts.

put on 3/8 socket.

work from left side of bike (kickstand side). Place tool in one of the in rib valleys of the preload locknut (the middle one). From the left side of the bike rotate the nut toward the forward end of the bike. I tapped it (well really wacked it) with a hammer to loosen.

Like this

from the right side (rotate lock nut aft) to loosen

distance from top of bracket to top perload adjustment nut should be between 1.4 inch to 1.8 inch.

Move to right side of bike to make all remaining adjustments (exhaust side of bike). This one factory set at 1.6 inch. I adjusted mine to 1.8 inch. Wanted to take out suspension sag.

rotate top spring preload adjustment nut forward to tighten spring and give a firm ride. Do not exceed 1.8 inch.

tool in action. Easier to adjust than loosening that locknut.

remeasure gap. Right at 1.8 inch!

finger spin locknut to seat up to adjustment nut

tighten with adjustment tool. Tighten locknut in this direction. Work from right side of bike (exhaust side). Tighten forward.

torque wrench at 39 ft-lbs...all done with the spring preload adjustment

grab the rebound damping adjusting dial with hand and rotate forward from exhaust side of bike. Keep rotating till stop. About 10 “clicks” This one clicks and is a lot easier to rotate.

like this

back off in opposite direction 1x click for “hard” setting, 9x clicks for medium setting, and 20x for soft setting
Keith

great. i plan on doing this very soon. what was the result of your test? did you do some dirt riding after?

The tool that came in the 2006 tool kit doesn't look like that, and the one it came with, I found to be about as useless as dog snot on a door knob. I'm sure there was a money saving reason for switching.

I did a write up of the tool I ended up using here.

dont open that one,, spammer

My tool in my 2005 tool kit was different was well? It has 2 slits in the end (1 parallel, 1 perpendicular to the handle) and didn't have an opening for a socket driver? I was not able to budge to lock nut. Any other ideas? Or sources for the original or a workable tool?

I just did this adjustment to my 2006, tool was useless. Was able to fairly easily loosen the nut with channel locks and git 'er done.

KLM, your pics were a great help, thx for posting.

Mark

I always use a drift pin and a hammer to get the nut unlocked

Cigar Mike

what happens if you exceed 1.8 inches

k4! Excellent pics & instructions!
GreatScott was asking about this @Owner's Registry.

The Husqvarna dealer told me they set up the bikes they sell to the individual rider.
My Yamaha dealer didn't even mention it. I assume my XT250 is set at however it left the factory. I haven't fiddled with mine yet, as it's not horrible. But I may be missing out on better ride & handling.

k4, where did you get the special tool? That ratchet drive attachment that claws the adjustment ring?
What's it called?

Please be aware that on the '07 XT the rebound adjustment knob ONLY TURNS 5 TOTAL CLICKS. Force it ANY further and you get to buy a new rear shock absorber.....and they're costly! Don't ask how I know this to be true......

I am struggling with all of my might to get that middle nut loose, which I believe is the first step on my 2006 XT 225. Any advice? I don't have the tool that is shown here. It is the one others discussed with the two notches and one curved end.

Can you use some pb blaster or something or too tricky with the shock? I am loading up with side panniers and tail rack for a Central America trip and wanted to make it stiffer.

Sure you're turning it the right way? A little penetrating oil won't hurt anything. You can try tapping with a drift and hammer to break it loose, just don't mangle it.

From the left side (kickstand side) I was trying to move the dial forward.

Hmm, I have a 2007 US model and it has ~20 clicks and it doesn't appear to be broken. Maybe they just used whatever rear shock assembly they had on hand at the factory?

Welp got it done with easy. A buddy came over with a big foot long version of the tool presented on page 1. With the leverage from that and a rubber malet it was easy.

Stiffened the preload and did 7 clicks. I am 130 plus all the gear for my trip. Feels much better.

Awesome thread.

Adjusted mine to max pre-tension and "6 clicks from max" dampening yesterday and the difference is shocking, especially with a passenger.

I know this is an old thread but thanks! Very helpful.

Wow, a 15 year old thread. And yes, there is a LOT of really good information buried in really old threads on this site. I adjusted mine to max, but it made very little difference with my 240 pound weight. I wound up replacing the rear shock/spring with a very expensive aftermarket one, and also replacing the springs in the forks and using heavier oil. Total cost was around $1K about 12 years ago.

Hey Jerry,

Thanks for your reply.

I weigh about 215 so I upgraded the springs in both the front and back suspension.

For the forks I just bought the Cogent 42 kg/mm springs & DDC Drop in Damper cartridges and installed them. They feel much better. Nowhere near the amount of nose dive.

For the rear shock I bought the Cogent 7.2 kg/mm replacement Spring. I considered replacing the whole shock but ended up taking an incremental approach. As I'm in the process of replacing the rear spring (It's apart on my work bench as I write this) I don't have anything to report yet. I'm hopeful that it will serve my purposes and I won't have to buy the full shock replacement. I have to see whether the stock dampening will work well enough with the replacement spring at my weight.

Best of luck withy your upgrades. I not only weigh around 240, but carry 25-30 pounds of cargo on the bike at all times, and have added at least 20 pounds worth of accessories to it. So it is seriously loaded down.